The nose is vivid and pure, yet near impossible to pin down. Is that grapefruit swirling in the air? Or pear? Or neither, nor both? The wine makes you want to sit down or at least steady yourself. The palate is a long, bristling arc of sour fruit and citrus oil; the finish lingers on in a steady hum. Some say that there is enough electricity in one of these bottles to power a modest house for an hour or so.